I've retreated to work some more on my Maple Branch keyblock as I'm still licking my wounds after the sizing debacle. (Although, looking over the sheets there were actually TWO usable half sheets.)
I had forgotten the obvious that while increasing the size of my drawing with the copier by 100% meant I'd have an easier time carving the details but the block surface area has quadrupled and it just takes longer to carve a large block. Especially one with lots of curvy, spiky lines.
This is a 16" x 20" block of which I'm really using just a 14 inch square ( and will cut off and use the long strip left over).
I'm working zone by zone. Outlining a leaf and stem; clearing a trench around the area with my larger U-gouge then going back in with the toh to outline all the lines before clearing the area. I'm trying to be good about clearing and cleaning up as I go so I won't have tons of cleaning to do when I'm done.
I have lost some bits and pieces of the thinner lines and I'll have to glue back in some wood to recarve a few key areas.
Nice to hear from you Andrew - I was wondering where you came across Paul F, as he is based in Edinburgh - I have a post about his work on my tradigital blog
ReplyDeletehttp://hybriddigitaltraditionalprints.blogspot.com/2010/09/paul-furneaux.html
I liked very much how he integrated inkjet with moku hanga. I hope you manage to get the paper sizing right the next time. Must have been a very frustrating and disappointing experience but never mind these things happen to all of us no matter how many years experience we have I can tell you.
WOW!
ReplyDeleteI really enjoy reading about different working methods..I usually outline everything with the hangito, then clear with a big U and then polish with different aisuki...I like your technic..
About the sizing, Paul Furneaux gave us (at the course) his recipe that is:
20 g animal glue
1 liter water
5 g (about) alum
Last time he told me I really should try sizing paper but I'm a little bit worried.. I think I'll wait a little more!
Can't wait to see the print!
Ciao Mara,
ReplyDeleteI usually use the Hangi-toh first and do all my outlining but I was worried about lost wood and by working and then clearing a bit I was able to give extra attention to spots where I thought I was more at risk or had gotten in too tight or narrow.
When I was totally focused, suitably caffeinated, and had good light and reading glasses I managed to keep damage to a minimum. But if I wandered at all...My next post will attest to the consequences.